by Ronnie Bruns

 

Couture Spring 2014 is here and that means directional, experimentation, time to dazzle in order to sell perfume and handbags and finally a steamer trunk full of ideas… nous allons bavardent!

Chanel

The show looked as if from a Busby Berkley production number with live “orchestra” but this is Karl so it was pure modernity with a foundation based on the corset with separates layered on top. The pale color story kept the controlled waist the unifying narrative. The hair was artfully WINDswept yet controlled away from the glittered lined eyes with thin headbands. Grounding all of this were the TRAINERS that all the models wore
(my investigation found they were comprised of python, lace, pearls and tweed and will retail in the US for $4,061.00!) Wait list at Bergdorfs in 3, 2…

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Valentino

Opera played the defining moment at Valentino. VERDI! This played out a little too literal for me with few high notes and many that needed auto tune! Lets use opera glasses and peer plus pres!

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Atelier Versace

Donatella paid homage to Grace Jones from her Miyake draped and molded period. As an 80’s child and I know there are many of you out there, don’t we all still love a lil Grace in our face!

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Christian Dior

Raf Simons is more ebullient every season that passes since his appointment at Dior. This couture season he’s all lightness and openness both in fabrication and psychology with weightless fabrics flawlessly cut for volume but the fabrics have small delicate cutouts which thinly veiled the female form within … Or gave light and air to the female form within! Tres jolie!

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Schiaparelli 

Schiaparelli… ¬†children say it with me scap-a-reli. C’est amusant! Marco Zanini has brought Elsa back with her signature madcap, intelligent exuberance. Elsa Schiaparelli was the O.G. of punk with a dash of Prada. Plus the show had genius casting with Stella, Delfine, Imaan, Maja, Jessica and Chrystele! No “shoe hats” but Stephen Jones supplied the requisite wackiness! Je vis!

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